Do I have to code my pages by hand? Do I have to learn HTML tags or can I use a program to make them?

Yes and no. In an ideal world, nobody would have to learn HTML, and programs would generate accessible web pages.
Unfortunately, that world doesn't exist; for the most part, the average web authoring tool or "Save as HTML..." feature generates both invalid and inaccessible HTML.
A few are generally decent on this account, however -- Hot Metal Pro and Dreamweaver have received good recommendations.
Many times you'll have to manually correct HTML pages that are generated by authoring tools, which means you need to be familiar with HTML.

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	Designing for Universal Accessibility A FedWeb '98 Tutorial Presented by Kynn Bartlett, President, HTML Writers Guild